Monday, February 20, 2012

back on line

Hello Friends,
We stopped with our Blog when the situation in Aceh became difficult. Writing the blog would be too dangerous, since sensitive information could find its way into the Blog. Local legal conditions made working nearly impossible. Our private live was affected by the situation so much that we in the end we had to decide to leave Aceh behind. Our principles got in the way. It was very hard to say goodbye to so many wonderful people.
My job as Engineer’s representative was an engineer’s dream. We were making roads, bridges, river training, coastal defense, drinking water treatment plants, drinking water distribution networks, deep water sea harbors, etc. in total 26 projects. It took me 11 days to see all of them. They were spread over the entire province (825 km long trip). Luckily was Nunung able to join me on many of the field trips. We have seen beautiful places and spoken to some wonderful people from Aceh. Money corrupts…………….. so also some of the administrators of the Aceh projects. We were forced to make projects (white elephants), which were intended only to be money makers instead of helping the population of Aceh. It was my opinion that facilitating corruption is equal to corruption, hence I was forced to work against my principles and had to stop. It was for Nunung and me very difficult to take that decision. It took us three months to come to the conclusion that, although it would cost us dearly, we had to live up to our principles and go away whatever the consequences. After we made the decision to stop we were at peace with it and life became bearable again. We left behind friends for live and the wish to be assigned to Aceh in the future. We love the people and the land. They say that if you have drunk the water of the springs of Aceh you will always return. (We have already and will again for sure)

In Holland we had nothing left. We had burned all ships behind us the year before. We were going to stay in Indonesia/Asia for the coming ten years we thought. So coming back to just a load of stuff in storage was no fun. Looking for a house is not easy in November. Friends and family helped us out with a place to stay until we were able to buy a house in Arnhem. This house was however much smaller than our other houses that we had before. So our storage and sea freight were stuffed into this small house in such a way that all rooms were stuffed to the sealing. We had a lot of fun though, happy to be home and near the kids and as a bonus a wedding and our first grandchild on the way. Life was smiling at us again.

Friday, October 12, 2007

A new place with new opportunities





It’s time to write something for our non Dutch speaking friends. We are still learning how to use the web log.
We go back to May 2007 when our Indonesia story started. Wim got the message that the project in Aceh province in Indonesia was about to start. We have been waiting for this message for quite some time. It means that our world will start looking different from what it looked like in the past ten years.

After we left Indonesia in 1998 for Holland we knew that it would take ten years before we would be going on long term assignments to warm countries again. At that we time we had decided that it was best for Annisa, our youngest daughter, to go back to Holland and get her secondary education over there. The reason being that we always seem to get projects at places where there were no international schools. Primary school education at home is a challenging task. Nunung did a very good job at teaching her. But secondary school at home is a complete different game. Annisa was at that time academically far ahead of her peers, but socially she did not have a clue. She grew up among adults and never really had the chance play with kids of her own age. Our hearts were bleeding at times when we could see that she was longing for some friends. Nunung was going to stay in Holland with Annisa and Wim was to go and work abroad alone. At times it was difficult for us as a family to be apart for so long. Fun is double fun when it is shared. Sorrow is less severe when you share it. But we survived.

Now ten years later. Annisa is having fun as a first year student at the Nijmegen University. She nosedived into student life as if her life depended on it (freedom at last she must have thought). And she loves it from the looks of it. The beginning was a bit tough both for Annisa and her parents. We never could have thought that it was so hard to let go of the youngest (and it is still difficult). So Nunung and Wim could set out again for the expat live we love so much. That we were in for some difficult times came to us as no surprise. We have a philosophy that when something good is to happen to our lives it will come easily. If it is not made for us to enjoy than it normally comes with a struggle.

So did our assignment in Banda Aceh not come easy and it has not been easy from the start up to now. The client is not helping either. Since May this year we are struggling to get the project on the rails. The plan was for us to go and live in Meulaboh on the west coast of Aceh province. After having visited Meulaboh several times we decided not to go and live in Meulaboh but in Banda Aceh.

Subtract of one of my fieldtrip reports: “The trip to Meulaboh was delayed by one day since the father in law of our driver Mughlis passed away on Saturday morning. Since the funeral has to be completed the same day before sundown and respect had to be paid to the family, it was decided to postpone the trip one day.
Only one week before we lost our senior district planning manager for Aceh Selatan Mr. Soemarno. He went into hospital Friday last week. Most of his colleagues were with him when I visited him that day. Saturday morning 10:30 AM he passed away. Two of our colleagues went by road to bring him to Medan (a 10 hour trip) and he was buried Sunday morning last week. Tomorrow in Meulaboh an attempt will be made to meet up with the Bupati and the people of Pemda of Kabupaten Aceh Barat. The bupati (Pak Ramli) is an elected official with GAM (Gerakan Aceh Merdeka Geurillas) background. I already met his younger brother who was the GAM panglima wilayah barat (Commander western region) Pak Abu Yus, who operates a restaurant on the way from Sigli to Meulaboh in the mountains
.”

What happened to meulaboh?
Of the 50.000 inhabitants nearly 80% drowned. The inhabitants who occupy the houses in Meulaboh at the moment either survived due to having a house of more than one story or were out of town during the tsunami. The other part of the houses is occupied by family from the deceased from other towns.

a story goes that 400 Christians mainly Chinese had to leave the town to celebrate Christmas, since it was made impossible for them by the local Muslim fanatics, to celebrate in Meulaboh. All survived the Tsunami. Now the word is that the fanatics probably made a mistake and were punished for it.”

Many of the present inhabitants have no economic bond with the city. They merely sit out the time for the house to be sold and move back to where they came from. The y also do not contribute anything to the city that way. The houses can not be sold because there are no buyers (they are all dead). So economically the city does not represent much, which is reflected in the merchandise offered in the local shops. The merchandise is of very poor quality and mostly out dated. Early mornings we see many people walking on the streets who are obvious mental patients. You would normally see that in every city in Indonesia. In Meulaboh the number is much larger; no wonder after what these people had to go through. The city did not only lose its people but also it’s sole.
Meulaboh was built in the swamp (rawah) in the lowlands at the foot of the Bukit Barisan mountain range. The city quarters (what is left of them) have for a major part been re-build. The climate is moist and warm in town. The land is flat and surrounded by swamp, not a very pleasant place to live. The houses are built very close to each other and poorly ventilated. I guess that every person sleeping in this town can hear someone else breathing during the night. Some weeks ago the ocean was high due to strong winds in South Africa in combination with springtide. At least one quarter of the town was flooded again with some 30 cm sea water. Some of the houses are for rent with special conditions. E.g. no persons from opposite sex are allowed in the house unless they are married with each other. No parties can be given in the house. No alcohol can be consumed in the house and the house owner has the right to come and check when ever he wants to.
The drinking water supply in Meulaboh can be compared with other Indonesian cities that are built in swamps. The water is acidic and brownish yellow of colour. During the rain season this becomes even worse. There are no real big stores or supermarkets. The city looks more like a Kampong and not a Kabupaten (provincial district) capital. There is no place to go for a game of billiards nor is there a cinema.
One of the remarkable things that happened during the Tsunami was that only 5% of the local government workers perished in the flood, because there government housing estates were built on higher ground further away from the ocean and river. Hence the complete government apparatus was in tact and working when disaster relieve came. No wonder that the Bupati (former not elected district head) built him self a megalomaniac size office and had the main mosque repainted. Just across the Bupati office is the District Hospital. There I met with two American ladies who worked in the hospital. They told me that the hygienic and medical conditions are deplorable. I said that that is mostly the case in frontier cities in developing countries. No they said; ” we worked all over the world in third world countries and this here is a real bad case”. A good thing to remember, don’t get sick on the west coast. It is said to see that the donor money could have been used for much better purposes than a large office for a megalomaniac.
There is a large number of expatriates in town, but no social club of any kind. The expatriates are all young to very young people. I was told that older people do not last longer than a week and run away. Between the different NGO’s (none government organisations there is quite some competition. Who is to build houses where, since all say they came first. They are literally fighting for a place to “help”. A very sad situation to see. But not all is lost. There are two places where you can buy beer. Than you have to drink it at home (if the landlord allows and your neighbour does not tell on you).
Conclusion; Meulaboh is not the place for us.

Getting to Meulaboh is not easy either. A trip along the west coast from Banda Aceh via Calang will take 7 to 8 hours on really bad road. A better road exists through the mountains via Sigli in the north and Gempang in the mountains, a 10 hour trip. This road has become too dangerous to drive due to the lack of maintenance, as can be seen on the photographs.

The rock in front of the hole is the only warning sign. Photograph 1









A motorcycle will not survive this hole in the bridge deck. Photograph 2







The company rule is therefore NO driving after sundown. Both routes have however spectacular views. The winding mountain roads bring you along steep slopes and ravines in the rain forest with fast flowing rivers. While the coastal road shows you the spectacular and humbling power of nature. The tsunami force was so immense big that we can not comprehend what forces must have acted there.
The entire coast has subsided by some 40 cm to up to 1 meter at places (during the earthquake). This results in flooding of the coastal road during rain and high tides.

And than you have to push Photograph 3








Another option is to send your car ahead and fly to Meulaboh. This has proved to be very unreliable. The weather can sometimes upset the whole flight schedule, sometimes resulting in days delay.

Soon to be continued …………………

Tuesday, August 7, 2007

Nunung in Banda Aceh

Eindelijk kan ik nu rustig computeren. Ik zit lekker in de cooler kamer. We zitten nu voor tijdelijk bij kennissen, Aart en Ada Merkelijn die zijn nu in Jkarta. Wij moeten Porky de boxer oppassen. W hebben nog geen huis gevonden maar wel veel mooi gezien maar zijn allemaal duur. Ze vraag 200.000.000 rupiah per jaar ca 15 of 16 duizend euro. Normaal prijs in Jkt is 10 duizend euro per jaar. Dit kkomt door de NGO (non government organization) zoals, Unicef, usaid,oxfam,undp, merlin,mentor.Ik draag geen hoofd doek wel shirt met lange mouw, maar ik heb selendang bij me in mijn tas voor nood geval. Ik draag het als ik alleen naar de lokale markt ga. Er zijn ook veel indonesische vrouwen die geen hoofd doek dragen maar meestal zijn ze NGO's personeel of mensen uit banda aceh. Dus als ik met blanke man loop dat denk ze dat ik van de NGO's is.3 weken geleden ging ik zwemmen met Deborah, een amerikaan. We mogen geen bikini of baywatch bad pak aan. Dus wij hebben badpak, legging en shirt - zo dat ze onze borsten niet zien- met lange mouw aan. Extra zwaar. Gisteren voor de eerste keer sinds ik in BA kwam. zag ik een politie agama/politie syaria. Razia of controleren of de dames./vrouwen jilbab(hoofddoek) draag. Ik zat in de auto achter Saiful onze driver uit bandarlampung. Voor zekerheid heb ik altijd een selendang in mijn tas,dus niks aandehand want ik zit in de auto niet op motor of lopen.Gisteren 5 Aug hebben we een mooi huis gezien en precies wat we willen, geen verdieping, niet te groot en niet te klein, met grote tuin genoeg om zwembad opbouwen, sauna (je weet Wim )en pohon jeruk ofsinaasapelboom en veel soorten kruiden want de eigenaar is ir pertanian (landbouw). 3 slaapkamers en nog 2 extra kamer als guesthouse met badkamer en toilet binnen. MAAR.. er is een maar... ! Naast het huis (buiten de tuin) is een begraafplaats/familie begraafplaats met 5 steen. In banda Aceh bijna ieder fam heeft eigen begraafplaats. Dus...,beetje bang..., beetje eng...!Nouw dat was het bericht uit banda aceh. Ik moet nu mijn kamer opruimen, ik ben nog niet een nyonya of madame wordt want ik doe alles nog by my self he..he..he..! Dus nog geen Sari of Ida...! he..he..!

Sunday, August 5, 2007

Meulaboh two years after the Tsunami

2 Juni 2007 Fieldtrip to Meulaboh in search of housing/office/personnel

Meulaboh is gebouwd in het moeras dat in de lage landen ligt aan de voet van het Bukit Barisan gebergte. De woonwijken zijn (wat er nog van over is) grotendeels weer opgebouwd en gerenoveerd. Het is erg vochtig en warm in de stad. Aangezien het land vlak is en de huizen omringd door moeras water is het niet erg aangenaam om er te wonen. De huizen op dit moment te huur zijn in slechte staat van onderhoud. De huizen staan erg dicht op elkaar en zijn slecht geventileerd. Geen van de huizen die ik tot nu toe gezien heb (12) voldoen aan veiligheid of gezondheids eisen die redelijkerwijs aan een woonhuis gesteld kan worden. Twee weken geleden is een groot deel van de stad ondergelopen met zeewater. Deze keer niet hoger dan zo’n 30 cm. De huizen die in aanbouw waren in het gebied dat weggevaagd werd tijdens de tsunami zijn nu bedekt met een laag zand dan de zee binnengebracht heeft.
Aan de verhuur van sommige huizen is de voorwaarde gesteld dat er geen feesten gegeven mogen worden en geen gasten van verschillen sexe ongehuwd in het zelfde huis mogen verblijven. Hetgeen door de pak RT gecontroleerd zal worden.
De aanvoer van drinkwater kan vergeleken worden met andere moerasgebieden in Indonesia (kalimantan west en zuid, Sulawesie). Meeste huizen hebben geel drinkwater niet geschikt voor consumptie en vaak gevaarlijk om mee te baden (huidaandoeningen en blaasontsteking). Tijdens het regenseizoen verergerd de situatie.
Electriciteit schijnt niet zo slecht te zijn, maar een paar keer per week korte leveringsproblemen. Meestal tijdens de nacht. En redelijk grote PLTD staat net buiten de stad.
Er zijn geen echt grote winkels. De stad lijkt veel op een grote kampong of een Kecamatan centrum en niet een Kabupaten hoofdstad.
Er is geen mogelijkheid tot vertier in de stad. Er is geen bioscoop of een biljardhal, etc.
Verder is alles goed in de stad. Voldoende groenten en veel verse vis.

Kantoor ruimte. Hier zijn verschillende mogelijkheden. Meerdere NGOs gaan weg of zullen downsizing beginnen deze en volgende maand. De kantoorruimte die op dit moment door USAID in gebruik is kan niet door ons gehuurd worden, omdat het te weinig kaantoorruimte biedt en geen goede electriciteitsvoorziening heeft. Om het te laten dubbelen als Office /guesthouse is het ook niet geschikt. Oxfam gaat binnenkort weg. Zij hebben zelf een kantoor gebouwd in een godown. De compound is veilig en de kantoorruimte groot genoeg. Electriciteitsvoorziening is good en ze hebben een directe satelietverbinding met het internet in bedrijf. De electriciteitsrekening is waarschijnlijk van het sociale tarief want Oxvam schijnt erg weinig te betalen.

Personeel. Het schijnt moeilijk te zijn om geschoold personeel te krijgen in Meulaboh. Technisch geschoold personeel is nagenoeg niet te krijgen. Ik heb meerdere personen (USAID,Oxfam, WFP/UNHAS) gevraagd of ze personeel kunnen recommenderen. De beste mensen (de betere) nemen ze mee naar andere projecten. De locale krachten schijnen nog al een vreemd idee te hebben over loyaliteit en eigendomsrechten, etc. Ze krijgen dan ook geen recommendatie. Waarschijnlijk zullen we het personeel uit Medan moeten halen. Ook zullen we bij de kecamatan moeten kijken om personeel gedetacheerd te krijgen.

Er zijn gelukkig een aantal heel kleine lichtpuntjes. Er is bier te koop in twee winkels. Je mag het thuis opdrinken als de huurbaas het toestaat en de buren je niet verlinken.